Back in the 6th century, the monastic site of Clonmacnoise was one of the most important centres of learning in Europe – an early Christian crossroads famed for exporting art, learning and faith all over the continent. St Ciarán and his monks, who founded this beautiful place on the edge of the River Shannon, were clearly busy people. One-fifth of Offaly’s land area is covered by bog. Throughout Europe, ancient peatlands like these have largely disappeared, but the Irish Midlands still have plenty around to prove just how abundant in wildlife these mysterious places can be.